14/05/2013

Project Sewn // Week Two // Sundress

Satsuki
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If you happened to get a little preview via your blog reader yesterday, I hope you enjoyed yourself…while I was having a heart attack on the other end! It’s the stuff of nightmares, accidently hitting the ‘publish’ button on a post before you’re ready. And of course it was the actual Project Sewn post I was working on! Anyway, suffice to say, it was the end of another big week and I was not on my game come post writing time…
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 This week’s Project Sewn theme was a Sundress. An awesome theme. Who doesn’t love a sundress? I know I do. Though living in the sub-tropics they come with certain criteria. Easy to chuck on, must be lycra-free and the more holes the better…got to have good air flow.
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I was kind of relieved to begin this week’s challenge with a clearer idea of where my sundress was headed. I was inspired by this fabric, a luscious silk floral that I won two meters of from Tessuti fabrics last year. Still pinching myself. And the print being so perfectly springtime, it was always going to end up as a floaty and flirty something. I recently made up the Victory Pattern’s ‘Satsuki’ dress(not yet blogged) and thought it would make the perfect base pattern for my sundress. I love the commodious kimono sleeves and the loose fit cinched in only by the waist tie, making it all ‘tight enough to show you’re a woman, loose enough to show you’re a lady’. Is that how it goes? The plan was to give it a major sprucing with cut-outs in the front and a strappy lattice of triangles in the back. Okay, it’s out, I like triangles.
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Okay so I had the ‘what’ figured out, but the ‘how’…guesswork and a whole lotta trial and error. I started by deciding on the dimensions for the front triangles then re-drafted the front neckline (left) to include the cut-outs, changing it from V-neck to round neck in the process. Working out the seaming vs cutting lines here was a little tricky and this template (left) was my third attempt. The next step was re-drafting the back neckline to a deep V, and then both the front and back facings (middle). A proud moment considering less than two weeks ago I would have been all ‘re-what-ing?!’. The original pattern includes facings, which I think makes for a beautiful finish so I knew I wanted to keep using them here. I just figured that backing the front cut-outs with facing, rather than say, folding the edges under or similar, would make them sit nice and sturdy and there’d be no need for top-stitching, which I wanted to keep to a minimum.
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Aaaaah the back. Now this architectural feat of construction that is the triangle lattice was more fiddly and time consuming than anything. I made the straps from pieces cut on the grain, not bias since I didn’t want this part to have any movement. Then it was a matter of lying it all flat and piecing it together. Like assembling an Ikea cabinet without the manual. The most brainstraining bits were making sure the triangles ended up a similar size, figuring out which order to place the straps in and then sewing them on, one entire side at a time to sandwich them between the back facing and the back main piece. Lastly I bound the neckline to join the triangles together in the front and hold the lattice up in the back. But first I bound the whole thing in stretch bias and it wouldn’t hold the back lattice up. Then I did the whole thing in non stretch binding and the front sat lumpy. By which time I was running out of scraps to make more binding! I literally used the last few pieces to make two separate bindings, a stretchy one for the front and non stretch for the back. Presto!
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 I’m enjoying leaving the overlocker out of things for the moment and went for French seams again. And used rolled hems all over. Well that, my friends, is it. And I officially have no more to say about this sundress except that I love it just so! And maybe, hopefully, you LOVE IT TOO! In which case you should definitely hop on over to PROJECT SEWN and wield your voting wand

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Comments

  • Chelisewrote:

    This dress is unbelievable. The triangle cut outs and lattice are so cool and inspiring. I love it so much!

  • lisa g.wrote:

    okay this is gorgeous. i’ve been eyeing that pattern, but it’s so different from what i usually go for in a dress, i hesitate… i adore what you did with it, and your fabric is perfect! love the triangle motif!

  • Nancywrote:

    Oh Sewphie, this is simply divine! I love the triangles, floral print and how it ‘flows’; you look gorgeous!

  • Trine (groovybaby)wrote:

    Wow Sophie – this is stunning! You look amazing.

  • KellyLeaSewswrote:

    Beautiful, gorgeous, amazing…a very grown up and sophisticated take on the sundress. I love it, you have my vote!

  • Venus-Suburbia Soupwrote:

    The dress is AH-mazing!!!The construction of the back is gorgeous and I can see why it took some time. My goodness, woman!!!!

  • melissa q. at a happy stitchwrote:

    Unreal! This is so beautiful.

  • small + friendlywrote:

    I so love it! And the triangles are totally rockin’ my world!

  • Kellywrote:

    Beautiful, and so interesting! The triangles in the back turned out great.

  • Madalynnewrote:

    oh em gee! This is freaking amazing!

  • mokoshawrote:

    perfection! colors, fabric, cut of the dress and that play of triangles!.. prettiest dress i’ve seen in ages!

  • SaraJwrote:

    Beautiful! And I always love your photos. Unfortunately it is not subtropical here in New Zealand : (

  • Simple Simon and Companywrote:

    Love the fabric and the triangle cut outs are AWESOME!!! Plus I always go for the “tight enough to show you are a woman, loose enough to show that your a lady” type of thing…unless it’s with my jeans…and then apparently I’m no lady.
    -liZ

  • Toni-Maree from Sew Jereliwrote:

    VOTED! Love this dress! You did such a fantastic job on it.. Bet it looks pretty on the inside too.

  • Crab and Beewrote:

    Love love love!! This is so gorgeous, and your triangle-izing (triangulation?) of the pattern is amazing.

  • nicole eatonwrote:

    Stunning! very clever you have done an awesome job. The fabric is gorgeous and suits the design perfectly 🙂

  • Funkbunnywrote:

    This is an incredibly beautiful dress. I have no idea how you figured it out but well done!

  • Jenniferwrote:

    Another stunning creation.

  • Mikawrote:

    This is gorgeous, and so creative!

  • Iliska Dreamswrote:

    A spring dress at the Powerhouse at this time of the year? You must have been chilly? But being such a fabulous dress I am guessing it was worth it.

  • Katwrote:

    Amazing as always!

  • gailwrote:

    whoa, that’s a masterpiece right there!

  • thewardrobesurgeonwrote:

    Gorgeous! I love the print and the sleeves and the lattice and…well… everything!

  • crystalpleatswrote:

    This is such an awesome Satsuki! Voted for you!

  • poppykettlewrote:

    Maaagnificent. That is all.

  • Caroline @ Sew Carolinewrote:

    once again, ABSOLUTELY STUNNING! i love the lattice work on the back of your dress. I actually have a top that has a back like that and have been thinking of re-creating it sort of like you have here…. hmmm 🙂 love it!!!

  • Yanawrote:

    Your dress is just stunning! Beautiful fabric and lovely alterations to the base pattern. Wonderful job. You’ve got my vote this week for sure!

  • Leah Franquiwrote:

    Oh lord this is stunning, just splendid! I love it, I’m just sorry it’s not warm where you are right now!

    strugglesewsastraightseam.wordpress.com

  • becstitches.blogspot.com.auwrote:

    Gosh this is gorgeous, voted yesterday as soon as I saw it. You’ve got my votes twice now!;) killing it

  • KajOzwrote:

    Oh my gosh! This is so perfect. You did a great job, I love everything about it and your photos are stunning too!

  • Nailaawrote:

    wow 🙂

  • Max of Max California ★wrote:

    You know my feels girl! I had to leave some love here though!

    This dress is just perfection! The colours, pattern and drape of the fabric is so beautiful and feminine. The cut outs and triangles and how the front and back are different but totally go so amazing together!

    You’ve pushed yourself hard with this one, making that leap of faith and getting out of your comfort zone! (I know, I sound like a broken record with those analogies) but it shows. The effort you have put into this!

    This is what makes Epic Shit. All of this!

    You’re amazing girl! Hope your fridge is full now <3

  • Reneewrote:

    Wow! The front is beautiful and the back makes me wish this was in a store right now!

  • Cloverwrote:

    This is amazing and so current. This is something from a boutique. And of course you rock it. Beautiful!

  • awfully-nice.comwrote:

    I LOVE this and am so impressed with your sewing skills – you are challenging me to get better!

  • Sabra at Sew a Straight Linewrote:

    This is jaw-dropping gorgeous. I love it so much. so.much.

  • sanae (sanaeishida.com)wrote:

    This is mind-bogglingly outstanding. There’s just too much to love and you are stunning!

  • Laurawrote:

    This is just incredible! I love everything about it and it looks absolutely stunning on you.

  • gingermakeswrote:

    This is AWESOME! Well done, girl! It’s seriously gorgeous. I’ve overlooked the Satsuki pattern until now, thinking it wasn’t really my style, but now you’ve got me reconsidering it!

  • Tarawrote:

    gorgeous! totally voted for you. I love the design and fabric, and am a major triangle lover too.

  • studiofarowrote:

    Great work! Love this competition! Sewing is the new black. Has anyone watched The Great British Sewing Bee? Fantastic! http://shar.es/ZtrEy

  • Soniawrote:

    Definitely my favourite look so far! This looks so beautiful on you, fabulous work!

  • cathywrote:

    beautiful! love the triangles. just found your blog from madalynn’s blog – adding you to my reader!

  • Leanne Mwrote:

    I’m sorry to have only just discovered this competition, otherwise I would have most certainly voted for you. To me, your dress was the stand-out of all the sundresses. I’ve added you to my blog reader so I won’t miss out on next week’s look – can’t wait to see what you do.

  • kristinwrote:

    Never got around to commenting on this before, but I wanted to let you know I LOVED it and I voted for you multiple times! You’re doing great work here, lady, keep it up! 😀

  • Alliewrote:

    This is gorgeous. Love the material, love the back, love the sleeves, how it’s belted. Everything, really. Fabulous job. Congrats on winning Project Sewn!!

  • Kimwrote:

    Wow, I love this dress! I think the cut-out details are super creative and look really good..
    The fabric is stunning aswell. Congrats on winning, you deserved it!

  • beautifullysewn.comwrote:

    This is so gorgeous! I really like the neckline, I’m making the same dress (minus all the fancy triangle work!) and I really like the boatneck/round neck over the v-neck which reminds me of scrubs.

  • Kathleenwrote:

    Hi
    I just love how you did the laticework on the back! I am a beginning/returning sewer after a 40 year hiatus 🙂 and you inspire me with this dress. Your choice of fabric for this style was just so perfect. Not “homemade” yet classic and far too special to be simply bought off the rack.
    Sincerely,
    Kathleen

  • Encore un peu d’été ? |wrote:

    […] Satsuki de Victory patterns, je veux me la faire deuis que je l’ai repéré chez Ada Spragg. Et encore plus depuis que j’ai réalisé une robe pour Lola avec des ouvertures aux […]

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