03/07/2014

Tokyo Kimono Jacket + Dot Mini

Ada Spragg // DIY Tessuti Tokyo Kimono Jacket + Vogue 1247 skirtNot surprisingly, after the big re-launch last week, I relaxed, got sick and have been drifting about in a lemon and ginger infused stupor ever since. In other news, we are having spectacularly beautiful, no-filter-necessary, typical Brisbane winter right now. And its cold. Now I know there is cold and there’s cold and I’ve already lost that one because there’s sunshine and no white stuff on the ground, but STILL, we tend to get a little bit excited here at the thought of bracing against the elements. Yesterday, I finally got jack of looking like a fly fisherman in my one extra toasty, fleece lined, tartan jacket and went out and bought a much better looking cosy, knitted jumper. Which means I can no longer deny winter is here and also how hopelessly inadequate my cool weather clothes are. Luckily, I have a big juicy list of Winter ‘to sew’s. But first, there’s a backlog of un-blogged garments to share from my time out. Sewn during the ‘endless summer’ that was autumn this year and are now of course completely inappropriate and being hidden under said oversized jumper. Out-of-sync is my middle name! First up, this happy duo: the Tessuti Tokyo Jacket and polka dot Vogue 1247…

Ada Spragg // DIY Tessuti Tokyo Kimono Jacket + Vogue 1247 skirtAda Spragg // DIY Tessuti Tokyo Kimono Jacket + Vogue 1247 skirt

So I’ve had my peepers on the Tessuti Tokyo Jacket pattern since this pretty version by Lisa of Tessuti, then Sallioeh’s hand-painted silk beauty and not forgetting the color-blocked goodness of Sew Amy Sew’s Tokyo. Kimono style jackets are pretty big right now, there’s a whole bunch of DIY’s around the web. It’s a silhouette that I think looks great on everyone and goes kind of awesome with everyTHING! Jeans, slouchy pants, pencil skirts, knit dresses, jumpsuits, maxi dresses etc etc. And, like my new-found sack dress love, now I’ve made one, I want another and another. A closet of sack-dresses and kimono jackets please and thank you.

Ada Spragg // DIY Tessuti Tokyo Kimono Jacket + Vogue 1247 skirt

The fabric! The FABRIC! Last week I raved about Nani Iro fabric, well, this here is one such lovely that I stashed away for something special. It’s called Kokka Fuccra- Rakuen Japanese Fabric  and quite simply it is f*%king delicious. Being a double gauze it is super soft and being a cotton it sewed like a dream. What more can I say except that I lovingly pre-washed it, cut out the Tokyo jacket, got freaked out over something in the instructions and didn’t touch it for two months. Which is something I NEVER EVER do. Either you like having a couple of projects on the go at a time or you’re a start-it-finish-it kind of sewer. Me, I cannot deal with having several sews in progress, especially not one taunting me from under the sewing table. All laughable now, after I just pulled it out again on another ordinary day, flicked through the instructions (which were totally great) and sewed it up in half a day. You got to be in the right head space for sewing, amirite?

Ada Spragg // DIY Tessuti Tokyo Kimono Jacket + Vogue 1247 skirtAda Spragg // DIY Tessuti Tokyo Kimono Jacket

Sizing? I made a small, with a medium in length. Mods? Omitted the centre back seam on the main back piece and the neck-band because my print was non-directional which allowed me to lay my pieces along the length of the fabric. I French seamed, because I like French things and opted for a double fold hem in preference to a single fold with the over-locking showing. Pretty innards make me happy. Loved? Sewing the whole thing! It has become one of my favourite pieces in the hand-made closet to date and I’m putting this down to all the love and care I bestowed on the little details like pockets, the cuffs, the neck band, being rewarded with a beautifully finished garment. Lil’ bit proud. Loathed? Nada. Ok, well, maybe that my french seaming the side seams meant I couldn’t snip the curve and it doesn’t sit totally flat. Make again? Fo Shizzle.

Ada Spragg // DIY Tessuti Tokyo Kimono Jacket + Vogue 1247 skirt

If you recall this make here, also included with pattern Vogue 1247 is a really meh looking skirt, from the cover at least.  It wasn’t until after this hot brocade version of Heather’s that I gave it a second look and actually what looks like a plain little a-line skirt from the outer is quite a neat piece of patterning architecture on the inside. Check it: secret kangaroo joey pouch pockets! So, Vogue 1247 is a great value deal folks. I had a little remnant of this light weight silk with woven dots. Read: fragile, do not pre-wash. After which, it went all seer-sucked and I wept, moved on and came to love it’s wrinkles. Can’t even remember what it was like flat. I decided the fabric needed some extra support and backed each piece of the pattern, all 8 pieces, not including the waist band, in a navy cotton voile. What I didn’t anticipate was that the polka dots are not random at all. They are in lines. Neat little lines. Like stripes actually. Dammit! Matching them around the pockets wasn’t easy and they’re not totally straight in parts but what choo gonna do.

Ada Spragg // DIY Tessuti Tokyo Kimono Jacket + Vogue 1247 skirt

Ada Spragg // DIY Vogue 1247 skirt

One thing to note is it’s very very short. I meant to add an extra bit to the hem when I was cutting it out but got distracted and ended up adding binding to the hem to squeeze out an extra bit of thigh-coverage. I was saddened by this addition but the binding is such a phenomenal color match to the fabric and you do have to look quite close. And speaking of binding, ahem, the pattern calls for the inside seams to be totally utterly bound. Which might sounds like a whole lot of extra work when you could just over-lock. Which it was, but totally worth it. I think you’ll agree, these are some good looking insides down there. And I may have got a taste for it and gone on a binding rampage with the next project.

Ada Spragg // DIY Tessuti Tokyo Kimono Jacket + Vogue 1247 skirt

Sizing? I made a size 12, which is my normal Vogue pattern size but at the time was carrying a little extra (blog construction stress) weight around the middle. Proportionally my waist measurement is always wide compare to my hips and bust but normally the amount of ease means I get a nice little snug fit on the waist without having to size up. Apparently too snug this time: the waist-band wouldn’t meet at all. So, we rolled with it and two self cover buttons and a couple of loops later I actually kind of love the new ‘design feature’. Mods? Only a small wedge taken in at the bottom sides seams for more pencil, less A-line. Loved? Another satisfying sew, good instructions, pretty innards and pouch pockets! Loathed? Slaving over 5 meters of bias binding. Make again? Done and incoming!

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Comments

  • crab&beewrote:

    You are the print-mixing master!

    And it’s worth noting that I’m wearing a kimono at this very moment…

  • Jennywrote:

    I was thinking exactly the same as Morgan!! What an awesome outfit, you make print mixing look so easy! Nani Iro (& double gauze in general) is just the best to sew with, isn’t it! And comfy to wear, to boot!

  • Marionwrote:

    Blown away by the super neatness of the underside. I’ve spent a lifetime hoping no one will look underneath something I’ve sewn. .. and such attention to detail Love the way you team up fabrics … It would never occur to me that strong polka dots and soft florals could make music together. An amazing look

  • jessicawrote:

    I just finished a version of this skirt this morning. And I love it. It’s so flattering. Your polka dots are adorable too.

  • debbie ileswrote:

    I love it, the whole shebang! Especially your Tokyo jacket. I made one recently in neoprene. ..just to be different. Now I want to make another. Beautiful!

  • Rosiwrote:

    Oh yay! I just bought the Tokyo pattern and some floral silk to make it (from The Fabric Store). Yours is definitely inspiring as is Lisa’s from Tessuti. Can’t wait to make it now! And spots are always gold.

  • maddiewrote:

    So glad you finally got around to blogging about these projects. Amazing!

  • Rebeccawrote:

    Love the whole look! The nano iro for the jacket is so lovely. I’ve been eyeing that pattern myself-need to make. It looks great with the polka dot skirt-love the pockets! The site redesign is fabulous!!!

  • muenzeeinswrote:

    what can I say, just love, love, love!!!! the whole look, the fabrics, it just looks gorgeous!! until now I was always a bit mmmmh concerning kimono jackets, but after seeing yours, na, I definitely need on :))

  • MaciNicwrote:

    These are both fantastic! Thanks for the intro to the V1247 and I love the Tokyo Kimono – your versions are just gorgeous!

  • Heather Louwrote:

    Great combination! And that Vogue is my all time favourite skirt – the fit is perfect and I love the pockets. Now I want a polka dot version…..

  • Natalie from Sewoutnumberedwrote:

    Ok, that’s it, I NEED a kimono!! And that Vogue pattern…as if my “to sew” list wasn’t long enough… Did I mention LOVE?!!

  • katiewrote:

    Oooh the skirt! I totally dismissed the skirt from 1247 too and didn’t realise it had neat little pockets either. Definitely digging it back out now. Love your buttoned waist alteration as well.

  • Gingerwrote:

    Gah, this is such a fab outfit! I want both of these! I’ve had V1247 for the longest time but keep procrastinating because I don’t know what size to cut (lame). I need to just get one done!

  • julie d.wrote:

    you seriously make the best stuff! once i’m out of my not-so-self-imposed fabric buying moratorium, i want to buy something kick ass to make the tokyo!

  • Merchewrote:

    Love the top and the skirt too. I just made the same pattern, for the second time and it is really the best a-line skirt pattern there is!!

  • Miss Crayola Creepywrote:

    I 100% just bought that Kimono Jacket pattern because you, Amy, and Sallie convinced me to with your awesome makes.

  • ebonyhwrote:

    The guts of that skirt are truly beautiful. Nice move narrowing the A-line into a pencil silhouette, and I adore the button closure too! Wish all my “mistakes” would turn out so good look’n.

  • Fionawrote:

    Stunning! You have such a wonderful talent for mixing shapes and patterns within an outfit. I’m loving this combo and may have to try it out for summer over here!

  • Lisawrote:

    Thanks for link love! You know I just adore this all over. Both garments, and how fab they look together. And (of course) I’m completely curious about which part of the instructions caused the freak out. Whatever it was, glad it was overcome because that jacket is totally gorgeous. Now you’ve made me want another Tokyo. Three’s a charm, right?

  • Kristinawrote:

    It’s beautiful!! Love the fabric. I’ve been thinking about making a kimono top in some nice sheer floral as well and yours is a great inspiration!

  • Amywrote:

    Such a pretttty new blog with prettty new colors. It had me at cactii and watercolors (I used to try my hand at doing watercolors of Texas’ ubiquitous ‘prickly pear’. I sucked at it but still love those cactus.)

    Gorgeous prints and kimono style as usual! Keep on with that talent for finding the best floral fabrics in the universe!

  • Kimwrote:

    Just found your blog through Pinterest. Love your makes. Funny, I recently made a black white polkdot skirt and have the same necklace!

  • liza janewrote:

    Fantastic! I love both pieces together. And I have had to do that same waistband mod on a skirt recently. I kind of loved it when I finished with it, too!

  • Sew Brunswickwrote:

    Love, love, love!! And I so need a Kimono jacket now.

  • Bethwrote:

    This is super cute! I’ve been eying the tokyo jacket for a while. I made that skirt in a pale blue stripe a few years ago. I love the design. It’s a great pattern!

  • salliewrote:

    Dude.. I musta been snoozing over here. I’m only just realizing that I have been missing a bunch of FREAKING AWESOME posts from you! Girl, you have been knocking it out of the park!! Please apply this comment to your last couple of makes (particularly that lovely Nani Iro sack dress!) I LOVE LOVE LOVE your Nani Iro Tokyo jacket!!! And THANK YOU for reminding me that I’ve been meaning to revisit those lovely, whimsical Nani Iro fabrics. Need them. NOW! And I also needed a reminder about that Vogue 1247 skirt pattern – it really flies under the radar, but it’s pretty fantastic. I’ve been meaning to make it for awhile now. Your dotted version is just so good and classic and… sigh… perfection. Anyway! Love you, Love your makes, thank you for inspiring and just being your sweet ol’ self! xoxoxo!!!

  • sew Amy sewwrote:

    OMG! This Nani Iro is so totally great on you!! Great styling as always and thank you so much for the linky link. I just knew you would rock this shit out of this skirt pattern, perfection.

  • Carolinewrote:

    I am preparing to cut into this pattern but haven’t ever sewed Vogue patterns before. I am debating sizing (cut to my measurements or size down as I usually need to with big pattern companies). My measurements are almost exactly a size 12, with my waist being a touch bigger than the listed (same body shape as you mention above – I blame those pregnancies!). Do you mind me asking if you cut a 12 based on measurements or is that a size down? Thanks!

    • Sophiewrote:

      Caroline, I think I was exactly the same as you, measured a 12 but slightly larger in the waist. So, I did have trouble with the waistband meeting but I think my waist was a fare bit larger at the time. I would make the 12 and you should be ok, or you could cut the waist band a little longer just in case.

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  • Kyliewrote:

    Wow! Fantastic. I’ve been thinking about the Tokyo jacket for awhile and this has decided it for me. Excellent skirt too! Bought the pattern for the top and had never considered the skirt – until now! Love your blog!

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